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Wineanorak - October 10, 2019

October 2019

Bettane + Desseauve

Wineanorak - October 10, 2019

Domaine Michel Magnien

In "Domaine Michel Magnien, Amphora Wines in Burgundy," Jamie Goode reviews wines from his tasting at DOMAINE MICHAEL MAGNIEN. He provides information on the harvest, which is completely manual, and mentions how the Domaine is "pioneering the use of terracotta amphorae in Burgundy, and turning out some very smart wines." Among the reviewed:

 

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru Les Cazetiers 2015 - 97 points

"33% in amphorae. Very stylish: dense and focused with pure sweet black cherry and blackberry fruit, showing nice structure and acidity. There's some raspberry freshness here with good structure and purity. Lots of potential. Lovely fruit quality. Big, structured, but fine."

 

CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1er Cru Les Sentiers 2015 - 96 points

"Underneath Bonnes Mares, aged in terracotta amphorae (50%). Supple and sweetly aromatic on the nose with some fresh green hints. This is really elegant and fine, and also quite structured. This has concentration and freshness with nice silkiness and some very well integrated greenness, as well as lovely cherry fruit. Stunning."

 

CLOS DE LA ROCHE Grand Cru 2015 - 96 points

"60% in amphorae. Supple and fine grained with nice structure and also some freshness. This is detailed and refined with a subtle earthy hint as well as nice sweet cherry and plum fruit. Lovely mouthfeel here with well-integrated green notes alongside the substantial red fruit. Concentrated and elegant with potential for development."

 

CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru 2016 - 95 points

"36% aged in amphora. Complex nose: floral cherry fruit with some fine green notes. There's a slight beetroot earthy character with some stemminess, but also lovely structure and brightness. Has real personality, a bit of grip, and a big potential for development. Very fine and expressive with lovely freshness and detail."

 

CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY Les Argillières 2017 - 95 points

"Based above Musigny Grand Cru, with lots of clay in the soil. Beautiful floral, sappy nose with sweet plums and some green notes. Fresh, bright and vital with elegant cherry fruit and lovely green notes. This is quite silky and pretty and it's completely different to the other wines. Good structure as well as elegance."

 

MOREY-SAINT-DENIS 1er Cru Aux Charmes 2015 - 95 points

"Under Clos de la Roche on the Gevrey side. Sweetly aromatic and textured with lovely rounded red cherry and plum fruit, a subtly sweet stewed note, and real elegance and silkiness in the mouth. This has amazing harmony to it, with some red fruit brightness integrated perfectly with the smooth fruit."

 

MARSANNAY Mogottes Monopole 2016 - 94 points

"Intense, floral red cherry and berry fruit nose with some fine spicy notes. The palate is fresh, concentrated and elegant with lovely grainy, taut red fruits. Has nice focus with some structure and good acidity. A complete wine that's approachable now."

 

MOREY-SAINT-DENIS 1er Cru Les Chaffots 2016 - 94 points

"Above the Grand Crus with stony soils. This has a lovely, slightly sappy cherry and berry fruit nose. The palate is taut and precise with some bright, structured cherry fruit and lovely grip. Quite firm with good acidity, but linear and pure with potential for development. Nice green hints with some leanness."

 

MOREY-SAINT-DENIS Très Girard 2016 - 94 points

"Lovely mouthfeel to this, which is partially aged in terracotta. It is fine-grained and a bit grippy with a stony, earthy edge to the ripe but balanced berry fruits. Structured and potentially long-lived with a nice flourish on the finish. Pretty and engaging."

 

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN Les Seuvrées 2016 - 93 points

"60-90 year old vines. This is bright and focused with textured cherry and plum fruit. Nice grip to the structure which is quite firm but has finesse. Lovely cherry and plum fruit with a subtle sappiness and a nice presence."

 

MOREY-SAINT-DENIS 1er Cru Millandes 2015 - 93 points

"The first year using the terracotta jars. Under the Grand Crus in the curve of the slope, with deeper soils making more rounded wines. This has textured, sweet, quite dense red cherry and plum fruit with nice bright, sweet cherry and plum fruit. Expressive with good structure, and potential for development."

 

BOURGOGNE Pinot Noir 2017 - 92 points

"Vivid, focused red cherry and blackberry fruit nose. The palate shows good concentration and brightness with sweet black cherry fruit and some fine spiciness. This has a dark fruit quality and really nice texture. Such a lovely wine with depth and richness belying the appellation."

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